Karasawa Hutte

A hut at about 2,300m in the Karasawa cirque, cradled by the Hotaka range and looking out over the whole glacial basin. Reached from Kamikochi by way of Yokoo and Hontani bridge, this is one of Japan's great mountain places: stand on the viewing terrace and the rock ridge runs across in front of you from Maehotakadake to Okuhotakadake, Karasawadake and Kitahotakadake. Sitting there with the hut's famous oden and a draught beer, looking at Hotaka, has become the thing this place is known for. The rooms sleep 140 and are divided group by group with partitions and curtains; there is a drying room, a self-catering room and a common room. Water is groundwater from the Kitahozawa stream, free to guests. The campsite spread out below takes no bookings — first come, first served — and tents, sleeping bags, and even a gas burner and cookset can be hired, so a night in the cirque is possible without carrying full kit. The season runs 27 April to 3 November. From late September the autumn colour fills the whole cirque and draws crowds of walkers.